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From the Earth to the Table: John Ash's Wine Country Cuisine

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CHEF JOHN ASH
John Ash
John Ash: Cooking One on One:
Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food
from a Master Teacher

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"Teaching has come to be the thing I love most in life..." Chef John Ash

Food and Love - An intimate dance of the senses.

Chef John Ash Food and Love: The two seem to have always been connected in an intimate dance of the senses. Do you ever think about it and wonder why the two are so intertwined? The most memorable (and sensuous) times of my life have all been around food. Friends, lovers and the dining table are all folded in together like some great soufflé.

I remember an extraordinary Easter that I spent on the island of Crete many years ago. I was with a large Greek family and a bunch of traveling companions. We had met only a couple of days before but we knew everything about each other. Intimacy like that only seems to happen on the road. It must come from the fact that you can be absolutely open and honest because you know that in a few days you'll never see each other again!

That day for me was mythical (or at least that's how I've built it up after all these years). We started in the morning, on the beach roasting whole young lamb and kids (the goat kind) basting them in olive oil and fragrant herbs. Tomatoes, figs and cheeses were everywhere. The memory of the aromas is still intoxicating. By the afternoon, and with the help of a good deal of retsina, we ate, danced, touched ad swore our love and friendship forever. Haven't we all had experiences like that? What is the magic here?

For all of recorded history, claims have been made that certain foods increase sexual potency and desire. I've never found a complete listing of these, but there must be hundreds.

The Chinese tout shark fin and birds nest (real ones) soups. The Scottish swear by haggis, a mixture of minced sheep innards mixed with oatmeal and spices and then stuffed into a sheep's stomach and boiled for 4 hours (Scots obviously have a different sense of sensuality!). The Aztecs include cocoa and chocolate (which interestingly were forbidden to their women); The Greeks revered pine nuts according to Ovid; Pliny mentioned hippopotamus snout and hyena eyes and every culture seems to have used oysters.

Additionally, caviar, snails and the eggs, glands and genitals of all kinds of birds, animals and fish are said to provide special powers. Even prunes were so highly regarded as an aphrodisiac in Elizabethan times that they were freely served in brothels.

In the garden, apples, figs, bananas, cucumbers, leeks, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes have all been attributed with special sexual potentials at one time or another. The obvious connection being that many of them resemble human genitalia! Herbs and edible flowers including roses, lavender, catnip, passion flower, saffron, savory and ginseng root have been celebrated for their special powers.

Noted anthropologist, Peter Farb, observed that the association between food and sex has existed since man started walking upright. Eating brings couples into close proximity in a situation that does not call for defensive tactics. When you think about it, eating can bind a couple more effectively than sex simply because people eat more often and predictably than they have sexual relations.

Physiologically our nervous system deals in a similar way with both hunger and sexual excitement. We all have very sensitive structures called "Krause's end bulbs" that are found in both the taste buds of the mouth and in the sensitive parts of our sexual organs. This could explain why sexual desire and a delicious aroma of food both cause our mouths to water!

M.F.K. Fisher notes in her wonderful little book An Alphabet for Gourmets that gastronomy has always been connected with its sister art of love. Passion and sex is the "come-and-go, the preening and the prancing, the final triumph or defeat, of two people who know enough, subconsciously or not, to woo with food as well as flattery".

Enough of the lore; it's now time for action! I've several favorite recipes that I think are evocative (as well as provocative) of love and sensuality. Enjoy the FREE recipes provided.

©John Ash

 

Cookbooks Authored by Chef John Ash


Winner of the Julia Child
"Cookbook of the Year"
from the IACP

From the Earth to the Table: John Ash's Wine Country Cuisine
One of California's foremost chefs, in association with Fetzer Vineyards, celebrates the bounty of the garden and the vine with a collection of more than 300 recipes that pay magnificent tribute to fresh and healthy high-flavor food--plus a a helpful--and fun--approach to testing and evaluating wines. Color photos.

Winner of the 2005 James Beard Foundation Award
John Ash: Cooking One-on-One: Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food from a Master Teacher
Chef John Ash

American Game Cooking: A Contemporary Guide to Preparing Farm-Raised Game Birds and Meats
American Game Cooking: A Contemporary Guide to Preparing Farm-Raised Game Birds and Meats
Game farms have made exotic fowl and meats widely available to the non-hunter, and this is an excellent resource for those who want to cook on the wild side. From boar-based borscht to roast lacquered duck with muscat-tamarind sauce, the recipes contained herein are delicious.

 

"It's the process of cooking that's so much fun — the bonus is that you get something at the end to eat." Chef John Ash

 

Love and Sensuality Recipes:

 

(Chef John Ash)

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