Finger Lickin’ Good Chicken

Chicken alla Diavolo

Recipe from: Italian Classics
by Editors of Cooks' Illustrated
Published: August 2002

There are many theories on how this “chicken of the devil” got its name. Some say it is in reference to the fiery coals over which the chicken is grilled; others claim it is for the diabolical amount of black pepper or hot pepper flakes that are used. But name aside, most recipes for this classic grilled chicken are quite similar; the chicken is butterflied and grilled with a heavy dousing of either black pepper or hot pepper flakes and lots of lemon. As simple as it sounds, we found that grilling a whole butterflied chicken is tricky, and it is difficult to get the lemon and pepper seasonings to shine through.

Saving the issue of flavor for later, we first focused on the obvious problem of how to grill a butterflied chicken. Most recipes call for weights to be placed on top of the bird as it is grilled, to promote fast and even cooking. Covered with a cast-iron pan or old baking sheet, the flattened chicken is then weighted down with bricks or heavy cans. After cooking two chickens, with and without weights, it became obvious why the weights were necessary. When pounded, then weighted flat, the chicken not only cooked more quickly and evenly but also achieved beautiful grill marks. The unweighted chicken, by comparison, had a less evenly colored skin and took longer to cook through.

We found that the chicken skin was quick to tear when overhandled, and we wanted to find a cooking method that involves a minimum of flipping. When cooked over a single level medium-hot grill, the chicken cooked in about 30 minutes, flipped once halfway through. Interestingly, we found cooking on a charcoal grill required a different method from a gas grill. On charcoal, it is important to cook the chicken skin side up first, or else the bright, hot coals will burn the skin. For a gas grill, the bird must be grilled skin side down first, or else the grill will cool, making it difficult to get decent grill marks on the skin.

Moving on to flavor, we tested several ways to make the chicken taste robust and spicy. Immediately, we found that marinating the chicken before grilling was essential. Although marinating does little to enhance the texture of the meat, it does a lot in terms of flavor. Marinating in lemon juice, black pepper, and olive oil offered a good base, but we wanted more flavor. In an effort to bring out the black pepper, we found it better to rub the chicken vigorously first before dousing it with the lemon juice and olive oil. To make the chicken a bit spicier, we added hot red pepper flakes and smashed garlic cloves to the marinade.

Although our recipe was coming along, we still had problems getting the lemon to shine through. Lemon has an ethereal flavor that can disappear quickly when cooked. Adding zest to the marinade helped the lemon flavor permeate the meat, yet we still wanted more. Basting the chicken with marinade helped a little, but the smoke from the grill dulled the lemon flavor as it continued to cook. To prevent the grill from stealing our flavor, we discovered that a last-minute brush of fresh marinade and a quick revisit to the coals to fuse the marinade to the skin was the key. The result is a perfectly grilled butterflied chicken with potent lemon and pepper flavor.

Serves 4

• You will need four large lemons for the recipe.
• 1 whole chicken (3 to 3 1/2 pounds), butterflied
• 1 1/2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 3 medium cloves garlic, skins left on, smashed
• 1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
• 1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1. Rub the chicken all over with 1 tablespoon black pepper. Place the chicken in a gallon-sized zipper-lock plastic bag and add the oil, 1/2 cup lemon juice, zest, garlic, hot red pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon salt. Gently massage the bag to mix the marinade around the chicken and refrigerate for 2 hours. Mix the remaining 1/2 tablespoon black pepper, 1/4 cup lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt together in a small bowl and set aside.
   
   
2. Light a large chimney starter filled three-quarters with hardwood charcoal (about 2 pounds) and allow to burn until all the charcoal is covered with a layer of fine gray ash. Build a single-level fire by spreading the coals evenly over the bottom of the grill. Set the cooking rack in place, cover with the lid and let the rack heat, about 5 minutes. Use a wire brush to scrape clean the cooking rack. The grill is ready when the coals are medium-hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the cooking rack for 3 to 4 seconds).
   
   
3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade. Place the chicken, bone side down, on the cooking rack. Set a rimmed baking sheet and put two bricks in the pan. Grill until the chicken is deep brown, about 12 minutes. Turn the chicken skin side down with tongs. Replace the baking sheet and bricks and continue cooking until the chicken juices run clear and an instant-read thermometer inserted deep into the thigh registers 165 degrees, 12 to 15 minutes longer.
   
   
4. Remove the bricks and pan, turn the chicken skin side up, and brush the skin with the reserved lemon mixture. Carefully flip the chicken skin side down and allow the skin to crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Carve and serve hot.

Copyright 2002 by Cook’s Illustrated. Recipe reprinted from Italian Classics with permission from Boston Common Press.

This Recipe was taken from: "Italian Classics"
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This cookbook provides 337 recipes covering the wide range of Italian cooking. Learn how to make regional dishes such as Tuscan tomato and bread soup, ...